Perigord Truffles


More common on the black market than in the supermarket, their mysterious elusiveness adds to their allure. A Perigord farmer has devoted his life to producing truffles, Anna Tyzack goes to meet him...


By Anna Tyzack

Hugues Martin is the only truffle oil producer to use only oil and truffles, no chemicals. He recommends that both truffles and truffle oil are not used in cooking but as an infusion beforehand or added to the finished dish. See below for a selection of his recipes.

MORTEAU SALAD WITH TRUFFLE OIL

Ingredients (4 serves):
1 Morteau sausage
1 kg potatoes (Ratte, Belle de Fontenay, Roseval)
8 tablespoons Truffle oil
2 tablespoons fruity dry white wine
salt and pepper, small clove garlic, crushed

Cook the Morteau sausage for 35 minutes in simmering water.
Steam jacket potatoes, peel them and cut them in rather thin slices.
Add to the potatoes the beaten mixture of Truffle oil, white wine and spices; Carefully stir and toss.
Set in the bottom of a long dish and dispose the Morteau slices on the top with harmony.

SCRAMBLED EGGS FLAVOURED WITH TRUFFLE

Ingredients (4 serves): 8 farm eggs
50 g butter
5 tablespoons Truffle oil
Utensils: 1 small saucepan with a thick bottom
1 wooden spoon
In the pan, melt the butter, add the slightly beaten eggs.
Cook over a mild heat and continuously stir with the wooden spoon.
When eggs are cooked, add 5 tablespoons of Truffle oil, still stirring. Serve in warmed up porcelain cups.


TRUFFLE OMELETTE

Put the entire eggs and the truffles in a hermetic container in the fridge for 12 to 24 hours.
One or two hours before the cooking, crack the eggs (2 per person) in a salad bowl, add salt and pepper, beat without making foam.
Add the truffles cut in pieces, thin slices or fragments and cover up until the cooking.
Put a bit of goose fat in a frying pan, and cook the omelette normally.

CODDLED EGGS WITH TRUFFLES

In a buttered and slightly salted ramekin, put 2 or 3 truffle slices, crack an egg, add a teaspoon of cream, add salt and pepper.
Cover hermetically and cook in the oven in a bain-marie with some water for about 5 minutes. The egg white must be cooked.


TRUFFLED POTATOES

Take 4 nice potatoes, split them in the length. In the centre of each half, make a hole and place a small truffle of 10 g (or a piece of truffle), a knob of butter, add salt and pepper.
Close the potatoes again, wrap them up in an oiled aluminium paper.
Put in the embers of the fireplace or in the oven (thermostat 9) for one and a half hour.

TRUFFLED PASTA

Cook fresh pasta.
Boil in a saucepan: 15cl Rivesaltes, 15cl Madère, and 15cl veal basis for sauce. Add the truffles cut in thin slices and 25cl of cream.
Bring to the boil and reduce until obtaining a creamy sauce, add salt and pepper if needed.
Coat the pasta with this sauce and serve.
You can also simply melt a big piece of butter and add the truffles grated in chips, pour the truffled butter on the pasta, stir well.
Let it perfume for 1 or 2 minutes and serve immediately.


Hugues Martin, trufficulteur - Bressac -24510 Sainte Foy de Longas